Tokyo - page 2
The rest of the story…
I had the opportunity on Friday to attend a baseball game at the Tokyo Dome, the hometown Yamiuri Giants vs. the Chunichi Dragons. The Tokyo dome reminded me in many ways of the HHH Metrodome in Minneapolis, complete with an inflated roof. It being a Friday night, there was a festive end of week vibe for the 6pm game. I arrived at the park without tickets and was promptly asked whether I’d like to sit with the home team or the visitors. Easy answer - go with the majority.
As we filed in I noticed that most people were bringing in their own food and beverages. Unfortunately, time was running short and I didn’t want to miss any of the game, sign me up for inflated prices. One unique aspect of Japanese baseball is the roving keg toting beer maidens(using the German term here). Each was dressed in a brightly colored uniform, in the case of Asahi a blazing neon yellow, with a small key strapped to their backs. They ran up and down the aisles continually throughout the whole game, what a workout. The only pause in the action was either to bow at the foot of each section or pour beers. Even at inflated prices, how could I turn down roving beer maidens.
The game itself was a precisely played affair. The teams played picture perfect baseball, no errors, no base running mistakes, a very high quality game. Throughout the game the respective cheering sections would chant during their teams at bat. I was unable to figure out if the chants or cheers corresponded to specific players. The lady next to me really got into it. Her game outfit complete with a Giants hand puppet that she carefully removed from a carrying case.
The Giants were ahead for most of the game, but lost the lead in the 8th. I almost left to beat the crowd to the train, but was glad I didn’t, given that the Giants mounted a rally in the bottom of the 9th, tying run at first, winning run at bat. To the chagrin of the home crowd, the batter struck out and the fans sprinted for the exits. While we call it America’s game, I walked away convinced that we’re not the only country that truly cherishes the old ballgame.
Saturday reminded me of a late winter day in Seattle. The rain was coming down in vertical sheets and there was a cold chill in the air. I had planned to take a day trip to Mt. Fuji. Mountains and rain are a bad mix, so I decided to check out the Tokyo National Museum. In the end, I’m glad it rained. From a cultural history standpoint, the museum may have been the best I’ve visited. There were exhibitions dedicated to pottery, watercolor, costume, archaeological artifacts, poetry, swords, armor, and much much more. I spent the better part of the day, thanks to a special 8pm closing, and ended up walking three of the five buildings.
My feet had had enough and my brain was overloaded with facts, so I planned to skip the special exhibit, The National Treasure ASHURA and the Masterpieces from Kohfukuji. Credit to the restorative powers of coffee, I had a change of heart and bought the extra ticket. Skipping the exhibit would have been a monumental blunder. The Masterpieces from Kohfukuji comprise a set of 12th century wooden statues from a Bhuddist temple in Nara. They are getting ready to rebuild the temple, was unable to determine when the treasures will return. The set included the Ten Great Disciples and and Ashura, a female figure with six arms and three heads. All the statues were incredible, but Ashura was mind blowing - incredibly life like with each of the three heads portraying a different emotion. The statue was in the middle a darkened room, elevated on a lit pedestal. Despite the language difference, it was easy to tell that all spectators circling the statue were in awe. No picture allowed - check this link:
In stark contrast to Saturday, Sunday was a beautiful sunny spring day. Thanks to a travel tip I received from an expat the day before, I set off for Yoyogi-koen, a.k.a Tokyo’s Central Park. Yoyogi-koen is famous for it’s Shinto shrine, Meiji-Jingu, and it’s free spirited vibe. First off I took a tour of the temple, built to honor, like the park itself, the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Shinto shrines have a slightly different feel than the Bhuddist temples I’ve visited in Thailand and Japan, somewhat less ornate, more a feeling of nature. There were a couple weddings taking place, granting the tourists an opportunity to view the kimono clad procession as it slowly streamed across the courtyard.
After checking the garden, pond, and tea house built by Emporer Meiji for Empress Shoken, I strolled toward free spirit-ville. What a sight. I know no where the Tokyo population goes to let their hair down. The park was filled with groups of friends and families having picnics, drinking beer, and playing frisbee. Interspersed with the relative normalacy, were goth teens, neon haired manga characters, dudes in monster 50’s pompadour cuts and leather jackets dancing to Book of Love, guys in full military uniforms smoking cigarettes, belly dancers, beat boxers, group dance competitions, and a long line of people offering free hugs. I have to say the whole scene took me completely by surprise.
I had a couple beers in the sun and struck up a conversation with Ben, a guy from Ghana, fluent in Japanese and married to a lady from Tokyo. He helped interpret as we chatted with a group of people around a large drum circle. An odd and enjoyable scene grew more odd when a couple guys with bagpipes joined in, playing Scottish folk tunes to Afro drumming. The sun set and police stepped in to extinguish the fun. What a crazy day in the park.
Today I had planned to check out the Imperial Garden, but it’s closed on Monday, much like it was on Friday when I originally tried - have to read the schedule in the guide book more closely. Instead I checked out Ginza, the shopping district that is home to the most expensive real estate in Tokyo. If you’re in the market for Prada, Brooks Brothers, Tiffany, Dolce Gabbana or any other luxury brand, Ginza is the place. Not exactly my market, I prefer REI or Eddie Bauer. I did chance upon the Yamaha main showroom where I finally got a chance to play a brand new bass trombone. After probably ten years, though I’ve picked up my tenor trombone from time to time, it was nice to play the big fat low notes again. If I only had $5000 to spare for a new instrument, or for that matter, somewhere to play it.
I’m in the process of packing up my stuff and catching the night bus to Kyoto. After a week in Tokyo it’s a little hard to leave the 6th floor confines of Mr. Nakagawa’s apartment. He’s been an incredible host. I’ve enjoyed getting to know him over our morning glass of grape juice and milk. A funny aside, Mr. Nakagawa started a karaoke business that still operates on the four floors below. As I go to bed at night, I can faintly hear the expressive tones of slightly inebriated business man emanating from below. The sounds of Tokyo…
As Paul Harvey would say, Good Day.
3 years ago